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“The name Dakshin is from the Sanskrit word meaning south. The restaurant’s attractive website incorporates unusually aspirational swagger in the code, perhaps in the spirit of “build it and they will come.” It proclaims Dakshin “The Finest Indian Restaurant in Canada” (for vegetarian and vegan foods). Even as a curry aficionado of long standing — Madhur Jaffrey’s ’70s classic, “An Invitation to Indian Cooking,” was one of my earliest cookbook acquisitions — I’m in tenuous position to assess such subliminal self-anointment.”